Tuesday, July 1, 2014

Day 1: Moscow (0 km) - Part 1
































Moscow, the capital of Russia, has an official population of roughly 12 million inhabitants, but with estimates that largely exceed this number, due to the high migration flows of people coming from Caucasus, Central Asia and also other regions of Russian Federation. If we exclude the population on the Asian side of Istanbul, Moscow is the biggest city in Europe. Moscow is an old bastion of soviet culture, but where modernity is starting to penetrate.  

Me and Andreja, my travel companion, walk down on the always dynamic Tverskaya Street, passing by Manezhnaya Square and equestrian statue of Marshal Zhukov (first photo), entering the Ressurection Gate, straight to Red Square. There we can say goodbye to some of the greatest attractions of this city: the imposing Kremlin, the luxurious commercial gallery GUM and the pompous and colorful Saint Basil's Cathedral.

Approaching the famous statue of Nikita Minin and Dmitry Pozharsky (second photo), two heroes who saved Moscow from the invaders, I decide to enter alone in church, something that Andreja has done in the past.

The magnificent Saint Basil's Cathedral, was built between 1555 and 1561, at the orders of Ivan IV, to commemorate the capture of Kazan and Astrakhan, along river Volga. Legend held that the tsar Ivan the Terrible blinded the architect responsible for the construction so that he could not re-create this masterpiece elsewhere. Now, after so many times walking around this temple, I can't resist and I enter. Right at the entrance, I feel amazed by the beauty of its interior, thanks to the wealth of its frescoes (third photo) and icons. More astonished I become when I see the tomb of Basil the Blessed and the marvellous iconostasis that gilds this chapel inside the cathedral. There believers can pray fervently, showing all their devotion and respect for him. Respect is something that reigns inside Russian Orthodox temples, usually guarded by one or more old ladies, who make sure that everything is in order and visitors behave accordingly. In fact, thanks to these guardians, or from the austerity of orthodox images, the respect and silence is present here. The silence is over when I go upstairs and start to listen to very beautiful voices singing orthodox choir music. I stay there next to the wall, listening these celestial sounds and it touches me. Back to the reality, I enter and greet the choir, and I talk with them briefly. Then, I visit all other inner chapels and come back to Andreja, who is waiting me outside.
(To be continued...)


Moscovo, a capital da Rússia, apresenta uma população oficial de cerca de 12 milhões de habitantes, embora com estimativas que superam largamente esse número, devido aos elevados fluxos migratórios de pessoas provenientes de países do Cáucaso, Ásia Central e ainda de outras regiões da Federação Russa. Se excluirmos a população asiática de Istambul, Moscovo é a maior cidade do continente europeu. Moscovo é um antigo bastião da cultura soviética, mas onde a modernidade começa a penetrar.

Eu e a Andreja, minha companheira de viagem, descemos a sempre movimentada Rua Tverskaya, passando pela Praça Manejnaia e pela estátua equestre do Marechal Jucov (primeira foto), atravessando o Porta da Ressurreição, em direcção à Praça Vermelha. Lá pudemos despedir-nos de algumas das principais atracções desta cidade: o majestoso Kremlin, a luxuosa galeria comercial GUM e a faustosa e colorida Catedral de São Basílio. Aproximando-­me da famosa estátua de Nikita Minin e Dmitri Pojarski (segunda foto), dois heróis que salvaram Moscovo dos invasores, decido entrar sozinho na catedral, algo que a Andreja já tinha feito.  

A espantosa Catedral de São Basílio, imagem de marca de Moscovo, foi construída entre 1555 e 1561, sob as ordens de Ivan IV, como forma de celebrar as conquistas de Kazan e Astracã, ao longo do rio Volga. Rezam as crónicas que o czar, ou não fosse ele Ivan o Terrível, mandou cegar o seu arquitecto para que nunca mais pudesse recriar uma obra com esta beleza.  Desta vez, depois de tantas passagens e miradas à volta deste templo, não resisto e entro. Logo à entrada, fico maravilhado com a beleza do seu interior, devido à riqueza dos seus frescos (terceira foto) e ícones. Mais maravilhado fico ao vislumbrar o túmulo de Basílio o Bem-­aventurado e a magnífica iconóstase que engalana esta capela no interior da catedral. Aí os crentes podem rezar fervorosamente, demonstrando toda a sua devoção e respeito por ele. Respeito é mesmo uma palavra que impera dentro dos templos ortodoxos russos, frequentemente guardados por uma ou mais senhoras idosas que asseguram que tudo se encontra em ordem e que os visitantes se comportam de acordo com uma pretensa normalidade. Pelos vistos, devido a estas guardiãs dos templos, ou mesmo pela própria austeridade das imagens religiosas ortodoxas, o respeito e o silêncio estão bem presentes aqui. O silêncio é interrompido quando subo ao piso superior e começo a ouvir vozes cristalinas cantando recitais ortodoxos. Deixo-me ficar encostado à parede, ouvindo aqueles sons celestiais e comovo-me. Quando volto à realidade, entro e cumprimento os responsáveis por este momento bonito e troco dois dedos de conversa com eles. Depois, visito as outras belas capelas interior e volto para a Andreja, que espera por mim lá fora.
(Continua...)

26 comments:

  1. Excelente projecto! Votos de maior sucesso! Pedro Almeida Rocha

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  2. Muito obrigado Pedro! Vamos ver se capto o interesse dos leitores :)

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  3. This is on my bucket list, nice photos also!

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    1. Axelle, thank you very much! I hope you are going to make it, and that some of these posts can be useful for you and other guys joining this adventure. I can always answer your questions and give some tips :) It's a difficult and long trip, but well worth it!

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  4. wow moscow is definitely top of my bucket list, you're very lucky!

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    1. Thank you so much! Yes, I was very lucky to experience such trip. Even if it's hard to stay so long in a train, I would definitely repeat it :)

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  5. Very beautiful - I love the shot of the statue with the colorful buildings in the background. How long did you end up spending there? I'm hoping to get to Russia before too long. So much history and such a fascinating culture.

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    1. Dave thank you for your comments! The picture is on Red Square and shows Saint Basil's Cathedral. I was studying one year in Saint Petersburg as exchange student and so I couldn't resist to travel on the Trans-Siberian Railway. You are right. Russia has so much history and very rich country. I'll try to slowly post more about this trip and maybe in the future start my own business bringing people on this trip or other around Russia :) In Russia there's a lot of fun when you interact with people in Russian language. People may seem cold, but they love foreigners who try understand and respect their culture and habits. I recommend!

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  6. The Trans-Siberian is a long-held dream of mine. One day. :) I've been to Moscow, but am looking forward to reports of the rest of your journey.

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    1. Bob, I really hope you are going to make it! I hope I will post more about this trip and show some of the places and experiences lived on this long railway. I hope I will be able to captivate your interest :)

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  7. Gorgeous pictures, thanks for sharing!

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    1. Thank you also for your visit and interest :)

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  8. Interesting. I went to Russia in 2007 but only made it to St.Petersburg.

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    1. Hi Karisa! Really? Did you like? How did you find the city? I have studied last year in Saint Petersburg and I loved this city and surroundings. :)

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  9. Moscow and the Trans Siberian are on my bucket list too. Great pictures.

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    1. Christina, thank you very much for your comment! In case you visit Russia, I can give you some useful tips ;)

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  10. Lovely photos looks worth a visit. Russia Has always been on my to do list as is the trans-siberian railway.q

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    1. Thank you Colette! I hope you are going to make it. As for myself, Russia is a very interesting, being very different from most of European countries. Trans-Siberian was definitely an unforgettable experience.

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  11. I´ve always thought that Moscow is magnificent! Still haven´t been but it´s on the list :)

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    1. Elena, Moscow is calling you ;) I really hope you on Trans-Siberian :)

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  12. Some lovely buildings in Moscow!

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    1. Thank you Karen :) Very specific architecture.

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  13. Some lovely buildings in Moscow indeed! I'd love to get there one day.
    We're planning to do the trans-siberian too but from China to Mongolia so it's a bit of a different way! Ha ha!

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    1. Marie-Carmen, I am sure it will a great adventure! I also would like to visit China and Mongolia, but as for myself, Russia was always more interesting, because I was studying in Russia and speak Russian fluently. Therefore, I could not resist to travel to Vladivostok and visit a great part of Siberia. :)

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  14. Nice pictures! I would love to go to Moscow someday, the buildings look so beautiful.

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    1. Thank you Jessica! Moscow is a great city, especially if you move away from the center and visit its wonderful parks. You won't regret! :)

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